After a flight from Yangon to Bangkok, it was time to spend a bit more time in Thailand, as I’d only had a few days in Chiang Mai, and a day or two in Bangkok. A trip to see the Bridge over the River Kwai was a great thing to see although it took a bit of time to get there. A train ride over the “Death Railway” was incredible, if I am able to use that word appropriately. The amount of suffering by the POWs who had to help to construct the railway was horrible. After visiting a local museum where the living and working conditions were shown to be brutal, it was understandable why so many people had such a hard time here. A friend was meant to come with me, but was stuck in Hong Kong where there had been a fierce typhoon, so she stayed there for another day until the weather cleared. The airline then misplaced her luggage, so she arrived in Bangkok and her suitcase hadn’t left Hong Kong yet. Thankfully it got delivered a few hours before our flight to Koh Samui, otherwise it would have been a bit more of a hassle.
The first day on the islands was getting the flight to Koh Samui, and then the ferry to Koh Phangan. A nice relaxing afternoon on Thong Nai Pan Yai beach was welcome. It was peaceful and was meant more for families. Both of us were exhausted after having a few early mornings. We spent the next day relaxing and having a wander around. I have to admit that I got my first bout of proper sunburn at this point even in the semi-shade.The following day we did a snorkelling trip to Koh Tao and saw lots of lovely fish. The speed boat was very bumpy, but fun. I felt as though I wobbled off it when I got back to shore.Getting a ferry back to Samui the next day was good, although I left my Vietnamese hat on a minibus en route. I had been carrying it round for a good month or so since leaving Vietnam so was a bit annoyed, even if it was a bit battered. In Samui, we stayed on a more touristy beach – Chaweng Beach – although at the quieter end in a nice little boutique hotel with a pool.A day trip on a jeep exploring the islands was fun – a lot of dirt tracks and good scenery. We sat on the top of the jeep for a bit which was fun and got thrown about (deliberately, of course!).The last day was spent relaxing with a massage overlooking the beach. Even if you ask for one type of massage, you typically always get a Thai one where you’re bent about a lot. There was a lot of back cracking, and it was a bit tricky as I am not the most flexible of people, so bending in certain ways is unpleasant. Anyway, I felt a lot better after it. I was nice to walk up and down the beach. I definitely felt the ‘party’ atmosphere closer to the more tourist centered section. If I had been perhaps 5 years younger, I probably wouldn’t have minded, although I did feel quite old. An afternoon reading and nursing the sunburn finished the islands trip.An early flight the next day returned us to Bangkok where I would spend my final day on my own. The week went very quickly, but I think it was just about enough time to do things without getting too bored. I am not the sort of person who can go away and relax on a beach the whole time for a holiday, but having the odd morning or afternoon to read or catch up with friends or life was good. It definitely made me realise how exhausted I had become. A final day in Bangkok was spent without any rushing around or a massive amount of travel – I felt quite lost! An attempt to get into the Sky Bar was ruined by the fact I wasn’t in smart/casual attire. Apparently, a t-shirt and shorts aren’t appropriate. Oh well! A little tuk tuk took me to Chinatown where I found a rooftop bar on top of a hotel where I got a good view of the sunset with a G&T in hand – shame it was Beefeeters though!
A 6 hour bus journey with an early start brought me to Chiang Mai. Then it was an afternoon trip to an elephant sanctuary which took a bit of time to get to but it was worth it. While I’ve had a fair share of experience with African elephants, this was different. These were rescue elephants, some of which had had previous injuries from being mistreated. It was amazing being able to feed them and walk round a bit of wilderness with them. And then play with them in the water! Although a few of us were slightly uneased by the amount of elephant poo that seemed to be appearing. They were very happy elephants getting a lot of attention and love from people. I still like the fact that they can just creep up on you without you noticing. Then a night exploring a bit of the night market – it was completely massive. I sense I’ll be returning here. Chiang Mai has a lovely old city wall surrounding it. Visited the Lost book shop – picked up book about Burma to read. Then visited Wat Chedi Luang temple where there are many old structures – women aren’t allowed in one of the buildings due to menstruation as it ruins the sanctity of the city pillar and causes instability. Construction started here in the 14th century, but the buildings have been affected by earthquakes. Also wandered to Warorot market which was huge. I was able to see a bit of the Sunday night market which was near to where I was staying. While walking around, the national anthem was played over a tannoy at 6pm and everyone stood still and silent until it was finished. So I did too. This plays every day at 8am and 6pm and everyone is meant to respect it.
I lost my pedicure virginity – I’d never had one before but my feet needed sorting. They feel quite nice and refreshed! Then went to have a full body one hour massage at a salon which trains ex female convicts and gives them employment as it can be a tough world upon release. It was a good massage and I felt very relaxed. A quick dive into the hotel pool was also very welcoming. While out in the evening booking a tour for the next day and locating a laundry service, the heavens opened and a torrential downpour lasted several hours. I dived for cover in a place where I could grab a bit to eat which was fairly close to where I was staying. I avoided rice finally!
I visited Wat Phra That Doi Suthep which is slightly outside the city and up a mountain (called Doi Suthep). It’s a sacred site as part of the Buddha’s skeleton was meant to be transported here on a white elephant, who then died. The original stupa was said to be built in 1383. Also went to a nearby village which had a lovely waterfall. Yet another massage in the afternoon (I am getting fairly greedy, I know – but if they are £5, then I’m not complaining). This was a Thai one concentrating on back, neck and shoulders. I was pulled around in odd angles and my bag was walked on. It was very odd. But I felt better after it. Then an easy night with some nice food and Netflix. I did have another couple of massages before I left Chiang Mai – I thought I’d take the most of the opportunity. A foot massage was interesting. I am quite sensitive on certain parts of my feet so I think I was off putting the masseuse a bit!
I took myself off around the city the next morning to see some of the other temples that are dotted around. Wat Suan Dok was first in the west of the city and it houses many stupas which contain the ashes of several of Chiang Mai’s important royal families, as well as the main stupa which holds a relic of the Buddha. Phra Singh Temple was fairly huge with nice grounds surrounding it full of smaller temples and meaningful messages attached to trees. Construction on this site dates back to the mid 14th century. The main building houses an impressive Buddha, and I walked into the main temple when a service was happening – this included lots of younger monks sitting at one side of the room waiting to eat and prayers were being read. I received a blessing from a Buddhist monk and have another bracelet to join the one from Koyasan on my wrist.
After a nice lunch, I treated myself to an afternoon of book reading and catching up on a few things using the internet – what a treat! Although I did feel that I was wasting my time and not making the most of it but deep down, I knew I needed some downtime. I then went to Doi Intanon national park and went to the highest point in Thailand at 2500m up. Unfortunately, the weather was rubbish – it was foggy and raining a bit. The waterfalls were amazing, however. Trying to see the two pagodas was interesting with the fog. The views from where they are look incredible, but the weather was disappointing. Oh well! It’s my own fault for coming in the rainy season! A last night to myself wandering around the night market and met some people who dragged me to a cabaret club. This was no ordinary cabaret club as the performances were done by ladyboys. It was very colourful and glamorous.I have enjoyed the opportunity to have 5 nights by myself in one place. I was totally exhausted and it was a luxury to unpack my bag instead of playing lucky dip! I felt relaxed by the end thanks to the many massages and some sleep.
Next stop: Burma!